Showing posts with label Wandering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wandering. Show all posts
Monday, June 30, 2014
What is Left When the Present is Gone
The road, like life, for which it is such a perfect metaphor, is as much about the past as the present. What remains when the rest of the journey has vanished are the good times, the many moments which made the road worth walking. Much of the labour, the drudgery, is lost to the mind, and only the beautiful, the striking, thecurious, the great, the baffling, the monumental, the surprisingly satisfying, the unexpectedly perfect, is left in the mind.
The 'lubina' I had for dinner in a cider house in Pendueles last night, caught that morning with a line by a man from the village who still makes his living thay way, and grilled to perfection over the charcoal. The bull that blocked our path on the hills near Andrín this morning. Andrín itself, beautifully kept, the newcomers building in the old style, clean and colourful, and with wonderful views of the mountains rising opposite.
The bufones near Llanes, sinkholes in the karstic formations of the area, some almost perfect circles, apparently bottomless cylinders going deep into the earth, throwing out sprays of seawater when the high tide forces its way in and under then.
The river Purón, ankle-deep and clear and cold, running to the sea just there between high cliffs, looking as though it were a thousand miles from the sea, a pure, green, gurgling stream that you cross on an old wooden bridge.
And although it is the road itself that matters, you remember the joy of getting somewhere, when you thought you never would. The path from Andrín to Llanes rose higher and highe and turned ever more away from the town it was supposed to take us too. A strong wind was blowing and I had the feeling we would never arrive, but be forever taunted by the unattainable town we could seen beneath us on the shore, and we would be forever rising and turning away until from fatigue or desperation or dramatic necessity we would reach an edge that we must fall from.
The water at the beach of El Sablón felt that much better this evening, because we had arrived.
Etiquetas:
Pedestrian philosophy,
Wandering
Friday, June 27, 2014
On The Road Again...
Yesterday we arrived at San Vicente de La Barquera, a pretty fishing village on the coast of Cantabria, on the Bay of Biscay, and one of favourite places anywhere. The old castle is high on a rock between the two arms of the river,closing and dominating the oldest, walled part of the town. Below is the old port, now with as many small pleasure boats as fishing craft. They come in a great variety of colours, but bright blues, greens and reds are popular, and they are moored not just in the port, but along the seawall, off the bridge and into the estuary. This, and the habit of painting houses in similar colours, those that are'n t made of stone and wood, give a slightly chsotic brilliance to the scene. Behind the port the main street has stone collonades all along it and the buildings are mostly attractive and powerful, looking as though they have always been there and always will be.
Apart from the beauty of the village itself, iit has a long wide beach bounded by high green cliffs, good for swimming and surfing, across the estuary, a short walk over the bridge, and many paths along the river and through other villages or into the hills. By walking beyond the beach up and over the headland you can, in a couple of hours of pathswith beautiful views and details of evrything that makes the area woryh seeing, reach Comillas, where Gaudí has a number of curious structures and Alfonso XII had his holiday palace.
Not too far away are Santillana del Mar, a village that is as it was in the late middle ages, bright and lively in the sun, and still lived-in, the Caves of Altamira, some if the oldest and best preserved of all cave paintings, and the caves of El Soplao, also fascinating to anyone with imagination and an interest in what we once were.
We swam at the beach to refresh the limbs from the journey, then had dinner in the Boga Boga, which is the best place to eat if the reader ever finds himself there. The percebes were caught that morning, the nécora, a kind of crab, was grilled to perfection and the turbot, which had also been happily swimming that same morning before it was suddenly interrupted by a fisherman, was also perfectly done.
It seemed a shame to leave this morning, but we had come to walk, to continue where we stopped two years ago, and so we hoiked on our rucksacks and set off.
The route I had planned took us over the cliffs, through a handful of small villages, past fields of orange and purple cows, horses, donkeys, sheep and very small goats (you don't tend to think of goats as pretty, but these are, especially the kids). When I say fields, I mean any patch of hillside without too many trees that can be fenced off and where a sufficiently expert driver can handle a tractor without sliding backwards into the sea. This is not the broad, flat, dry landscape of Castille.
The village we are in now, in a small and comfortable rural hotel specially built to look as though it has been here forever, is called Pechón and is high on a headland between two of the estuaries which break upthe cliffs every few miles all along this coast. You reach it by walking a couple of miles up a steep road that climbs beside one estuary, and going halfway across the headland. You could also get there by doing something exactly symmetrical from the other side. It is one of the things I like about, pleasing to the mathematical mind.
From the balcony we can see the village below and the see, and the showers sweeping in one agter the other from the north. Green places are green for a reason.
Where the road crosses the ría, before the climb begins, you can look to the left and see, within a hundred yards, the old road bridge, still used for some reason, the bridge where the narrow-gauge railway crosses, and the little station beside it, and high above it, the new bridge where the motorway crosses and buries itself in a tunnel through the hills. And the coloured boats on the water, of course. A living vignette of human movement and ingenuity through the centuries. It should have been a photo, not just a memory, but it started raining at that moment and I got distracted.
Mrs Hickory is always determined to swim, especially on a new beach, whatever the weather and the attendant circumstances. I approve of thishabit in general. This afternoon that meant walking down- down being the significamt word- through a light drizzle to a rocky brach with a dangerous undertow to stroll bravely into the chilly water, do a few strokes back and forth to make it worthwhile, and then trying to get dry in the rain before climbing back up again to the village. This is fun, really it is. The beach is characterful and atmospheric, small and shut in by tough looking rocks, giving you the sense of being alone against the Atlantic and the whole of nature. That's why it's fun.
Blogging by phone, apologies for typos etc
Etiquetas:
Life and How She is Lived,
Wandering
Saturday, August 10, 2013
San Pedra
I walked today along the route of one of the many dry or
almost dry streams in the area. The map is full of blue lines, some full, some
broken, with the words ‘non-permanent water-course’ next to the symbol in the
legend. Many of them have not had water for many years. Some, in fact, are
barely visible on the ground, but are perfectly clear from satellite
photographs, and you wonder where the water has gone that once created these
great channels.

But there is a lot more to the path than a feeling. There
are little stone bridges where it winds back and forth across the water. There
are little cottages used by the men who have gardens there, as sheds are in
England, but some are bigger and become a place of refuge, especially during
the summer. Some are proper houses, two floors and whitewashed walls, and once
families would have lived there all year round, with the chickens and the dogs
and the pig in the corral. Now they are just summer dwellings, quiet, solitary
places which appeal to the owners who still grow crops on the old riverbed.
There is a ruined Moorish castle, little more than a square
turret, rising through the trees on a small hill near where you pick up the
main road again. I saw it once after very heavy rain had turned the hill into
an island, and you see the castle as it was intended to be, unreachable by
stealth, a safe place from which to keep an eye on the surrounding country.
There are a lot of them here.

And from there you are beside the lakes. You pass an
attractive hotel, tumbling down the rocks to the waterfront, dressed always in
freshly laundered white, accessorized tastefully in well-kept wood, and adorned
with dabs of red and green and gold in just the right places. You are back
among people, and can then choose to swim, row, take the sun or contemplate the
world at any point along the banks where you can find room.
Thursday, August 8, 2013
Otis tarda

Etiquetas:
The Country,
Wandering,
Watching
Friday, August 2, 2013
At Orëbro
The river runs through the centre of what is only a small
town, really, and it divided and rejoins itself again to form a small island
called Large Island. It’s a matter of perspective, I suppose. The island and
the neighbouring banks are a park, a very green and pleasant one full of
unnecessary bridges and playgrounds and peculiar objects that were part of an
art exhibition. There is a castle on another little island next to it and this
was the view we had from our hotel room, which was across the river. It’s a conference
centre now and inside it looks like one, but it has an impressive presence from
without. A marauding band of brigands or disgruntled thane of lands to the
North would think twice about trying to take Orëbro.
Etiquetas:
The Country,
Wandering,
Watching,
Water,
What I did on my Holidays
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Sigüenza
Guadalajara itself is a strange kind of place. The eponymous
provincial capital is the sort of place that no one has ever been to, or comes
from, and the province is now a part of the Autonomous Community of Castilla-La
Mancha, despite having no historical connection to it. When Spain was carved up
into Autonomous Communities with their own parliaments and the rest of it, in
the late 70’s, the motivation was to recognise the historical identity of
Galicia, Catalonia and the Basque Country. The rest of Spain wasn’t so easy to
partition. Andalucia was fairly clear, and so was Valencia, I suppose, but
there were lots of areas that didn’t have any obvious boundaries, or that appear
to fit anywhere in particular.
León was put into Old Castille, Murcia and Cantabria were
given their own identity, and no one had any idea what to do with the Alcarria.
It would have been ridiculous to make it a community in its own right, Old
Castille was quite big enough, and Madrid’s dignity required that it not be
lumped in with another area, even though they are more closely linked
historically speaking. On the other hand, the Alcarria is defined to a certain
extent by not being Madrid. So the least absurd solution turned out to be to
put it with Castilla-La Mancha. That, in any case, is what was done.
The city/village of Sigënza has a castle on the top of the
hill, a walled mass of mediaeval streets jus
t below it, and a complex of rundown Baroque streets nearer the river. It has five churches of varying age and architectural interest, two convents, one of which makes and sells excellent chocolate, and a modern area which is still growing. It also has a railway station because, in the late 19thC, it seemed that it was still a place that mattered.
Everything worth seeing there can be seen in a day, and our
intention was to spend another couple of days walking in the hills and through
the surrounding villages. There are several villages within a few miles, and I
do mean villages, where only a few dozen people live, with castles and one with
a mediaeval wall 20 feet high, for no apparent reason, as there’s really
nothing to protect.
A pleasant few days. It rained a bit, in fact it hailed
twice, once just after we lost the dogs, but as I say to Mrs Hickory at such
times, ‘Rain is a state of mind.’ She doesn’t always look convinced. Anyhow,
photos.
Etiquetas:
Beauty,
Wandering,
What I did on my Holidays
Saturday, September 15, 2012
On Hydronyms
The river that flows through the village is called the
Alarconcillo. The river we went to to look at the salt mines a few days ago is
the Pinilla. They both play a role in feeding the lakes and their two lines
join up near the start. A couple of weeks ago I went to a village further
south, on the river Cañamares. There is a stream that flows into the lower
lakes, called the Magdalena, one of many that appear on the maps in the
innumerable little valleys that the crumpled scenery here creates. This one is
particular well known because it gives it name to a stretch on hill on the road
to somewhere else where a lot of motorcyclists have met an unhappy end. It
tempts you to go faster than the curves will allow.
All of this makes for a verdant-sounding countryside filled
with the chatter of babbling brooks and the mating calls of happy and abundant
fish. But all these rivers are dry. None of them deserves the name of river at
all, as they are little more than mud channels baked in the sun. On the
occasions when they do have water in them, it is a kind of sludge so narrow you
can jump across it.
The city I live in is on the Guadiana, which at least is a
proper river you can get wet in. It flows north-east, through Mérida and
Badajoz, then goes south, forming the border between Spain and Portugal for
about 70 miles and flowing into the Atlantic at Ayamonte. The name is Arabic
and it somehow manages to keep its identity for several hundred miles, despite
joining with many other rivers and passing through complex multi-feed drainage
systems.
You would expect most people to call the river that waters
their town or village ‘The River’. Why would you need a name for it at all?
‘And even if you did, to distinguish it from some other river that passed
nearby, perhaps, why would the people in the village a few miles downstream
give it the same name? There comes a point where the distance is so great, and
it needn’t be more than a dozen or so miles, that it is not even recognised as
the same river.
People identify their local river with some divinity, or
event, or specific feature that characterises it, because they like giving an
identity to the important things in their lives. Geographers give themselves
the task of tracing rivers, then they need to define criteria for choosing
names and deciding which has precedence, so the idea that a river has an
identity over hundreds of miles is an invention of modern academia.
A neat explanation, if I do say so myself, but unfortunately
it isn’t true. Hydronyms, and to a certain extent toponyms more generally, are
extraordinarily durable. They are handed down from tribe to tribe, from
conquered to conquerors, from those who left to go West to those who moved in
to replace them. Most of the place and river names of Greece are not Greek.
They have survived not only three thousand years of Greek culture, the Turkish
conquest/semi-replacement of the 17thC, but they even survived the original
occupation of the land we know as Greece by those who came from the East and
displaced those who gave them those names.
There are countless river names in Spain that are Arabic,
Visigothic or Celtic in origin. Why do people who share no language or cultural
identity with the namers, nor any real cultural continuity, continue to use
names that mean nothing to them?
Names are sounds. The meaning of the sounds is less
important than the symbolism of the thing we attach them to. I am certain there is a great deal of information about human history in the human mind contained in the way we preserve and re-interpret names that have become meaningless, but try as I might, I can't find it.
Etiquetas:
Beauty,
Speculation,
The Country,
The Past,
This is not a random thought,
Wandering
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Silence
There is a feeling I look for, at some time, every summer
here. There are moments out on the hills when nothing moves, and there is no
sound. When the sun burns down out of a sky that’s almost white, it’s 40º in
the shade- not that there is much shade- and the air is so completely still
that the odd bushes and blades of corn look painted on the background. When the
rabbits are hiding in the ground, the birds have gone to find a leafier place
to keep cool, the insects are buried and quiet, and the whole world, dry,
rocky, barren, empty as it is, is mine. Nobody else wants it then, and I could be
alone in the world. It has to be at a high point on the land, where you can command
a distant horizon, and know that everything you see for miles around you is silent
and empty.
When such a moment coincides with feeling physically strong,
untired by the effort behind me and undaunted by the miles ahead, confident and
optimistic, the only living creature that wants to be there, it is all mine.
The road is life, and this is one of the things that make
the road worth walking.
Saturday, August 11, 2012
Lost Dreams
There is, atop a hill overlooking the largest of all the
lakes, the unfinished shell of a building that has spent decades falling apart,
since the owners’ dream of having the best hotel on the lakes ran into reality
some time in the 60’s. You can see it from miles around- the spot is very well
chosen- but I had never been up to see it. This morning I decided to find a
path, there had to be one, and if it was overgrown it would be easy to hack through,
as the undergrowth is fairly sparse there.
The original owners are probably dead. They moved on to
other dreams, some of which worked out, I believe, and left us a monument to
the best-laid plans.
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Notes from the Road- Santoña and the Marismas
Laredo is a seaside town that consists almost entirely of a
spit extending almost all the way across the estuary to Santoña. On one side is
a very serviceable beach, much of the rest is grass-covered sand, and wherever
possible there are houses for tourists. It has, as far as I know, no history,
and the population trebles in the summer. In the winter those that are left
just mooch about waiting for the sun to come out. Not somewhere you’d want to
live.
It is, on the other hand, a very good place to start walking
from (to leave, if you like). As you walk west you come immediately to the
marismas, the expanse of the estuary, with shallow water, and highly fertile
mud just below or just above the surface. If that doesn’t sound especially
inviting (and it does smell a bit) the reason I like it is that it attracts a
lot of birds.
Most people associate the marisma with shellfish, and there
are indeed some very good mussels and clams produced there, as well as
sardines, for which the bay is famous, but for the eye and the spirit the
interest is provided by the birds.
We walked along and beside the mudflats for several miles,
through the port of Colindres* and then through a eucalyptus forest where we
got caught in a rainstorm. The road is wet at times. It doesn’t matter; you
cover yourself and the rucksack as best you can and later you dry out again.
Then you join the road and walk across a series of bridges
that cross the flats. The road is mostly bridge from then on, and you have a
clear view of the whole estuary and the sea beyond. The greens and blues and
greys rise and fall across the water and the nearby hills and the birds swim
and fly lazily across your path. The pictures don’t really do it justice and I think
the words don’t either.
Etiquetas:
Wandering,
What I did on my Holidays
Monday, July 30, 2012
Notes from the Road- Santander
We left Noja one morning and started along the clifftops to
Santander. The path I had found takes you through Ajo and over the hill paths to Galizano. The
route took us into valleys and up mountains and past farms with sheep, goats,
cows of different colours (mostly Asturian) some with small and medium calves,
horses with foals, donkeys with baby donkeys, and we were followed by a group of
kites that swooped and circled and generally had fun.
It rained much of the first few miles, on and off but we kept everything
covered. Sometimes we could see the sea beside or behind us, and always the
hills and the woods and the fields with things in them and the houses and the
little collections of houses which may or may not be villages.
In Galizano we stopped and rested briefly, and we asked for the path
through Langre and Loredo to Somo. We saw many farms and flowers and fruits and
animals and curious houses, some attractive. There has traditionally been a lot
of wood used in building here (there) and many modern houses in rural areas try
to maintain something of the style. In Galizano there are many fine stone houses,
including some modern ones.
Loredo is a little place on an eminence across the bay from Santander,
mainly a holiday place. You need to go down to Somo to catch the boat to the
city.
I took that boat sometimes when I lived there. It didn’t strike me then
but almost certainly the best way to arrive in Santander is coming down the
hill to Somo and crossing in the boat. You can see the city below you for miles
as you go down, its position in the bay, the Palace of the Madelena on a headland
and the Hotel Real standing out high above the other buildings on the ridge
that forms a backbone to the city. As you reach the landing stage and wait for
the ferry you can look at the nearby bridge to Pedreña and then turn to look
more closely at Santander across the water.
The port area is divided between the international ferry port, the cargo
port, the fishing port and the pleasure port, all along one stretch of the bay
that was the historical focus of the city, and still is to some extent. The
most popular place for strolling is the promenade by the marina, wide and airy,
and with sufficient cafés to content the civilized man.
You can see the theatre, a curious structure with a green copper oxide
roof and supposedly the largest stage in Europe. It is also highly unusual, if
not unique, in that at the back of the stage is a picture window, so the
audience can enjoy the view over the bay before the performance starts. The
need for curtains and scenery and the fact that plays are usually performed at
night means that rarely do you get the chance to see it but the idea was a good
one and when it does work it must be quite spectacular.
As you approach the jetty you start to pick out buildings and streets and
your favourite shops and cafés and you can identify the characters walking up
and down by there demeanour and their clothing and their gait.
Moments later you arrive, and as I say, I think that is the only way to
do it.
Etiquetas:
Wandering,
What I did on my Holidays
Friday, July 27, 2012
On Laguna Blanca

The lakes are lower than they have been the last few years.
They are filled not by the river itself but by the water table in the mountains
to the northeast, and it’s been falling because of the lack of rain. Some drain
more quickly than others, because some are little more than pools holding the
runoff from the larger ones, and they dry up sooner.
The other day I passed by on the bike, and stopped to have a
look. The water was very low, exposing what would be a serviceable beach if it
weren’t for the lack of shade. As it is, there was just a bit of very shallow
water in the middle with some puzzled fish swimming around in circles. If I’d
had a net they would have been dinner. As it is, they’ll be eaten by eagles in
a few days.
Such is the life cycle of these lakes. Last for the last
three years Laguna Blanca has been a place teeming with life, dragonflies of
many colours fluttering through the towering reeds and grasses while being
chased by crazed Englishmen with cameras; large and varied waterfowl nesting
and feeding on the succulent algae; birds of prey circling confidently; tiny
flowers dotted all about, breaking the symmetry of the green and white; toads
and frogs splashing in the shallows avoiding children with nets and jam jars.
Now all this is gone, and it’s nearly a desert. It could be several years
before it rises again.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
More Notes from the Road: Santillana del Mar
Etiquetas:
Beauty,
Life and How She is Lived,
Wandering
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